Distance: 20 km/12.4 mi
The route
As we woke up and looked out the window, we were greeted by the sight of pilgrims clad in rain gear, trudging through a drizzle. Oh no, the rain had finally caught up with us! With no other choice, we secured our backpacks, covered ourselves with rain clothes, and set out on our hike once again.
The day’s hike included some pretty steep hills, and if not for the rain, the views from the top would have been fantastic. Unfortunately, just as we were approaching the summit, it started raining cats and dogs. We had to venture deeper into the forest, where the road gradually turned into a small river.
The Camino started getting busier at this point, as the Coastal route joins the Central route, so we frequently saw other pilgrims nearby.
The rain finally stopped around Ponte Sampaio, which was perfect timing. This small town was amazing, and I seized the opportunity to take out my camera and snap some pictures. The medieval bridge across the Rio Verdugo is famous for being the site of Napoleon’s army’s last battle in Galicia.
Leaving Ponte Sampaio, the path wound through small residential streets before eventually leading back into more forests, and it was uphill all the way! On the way, we saw some horses enjoying a moment of sunshine while at the same time, we were being chased by dark clouds in the back.
As we neared Pontevedra, we faced another choice: to take a detour to avoid the busy, less scenic road. Despite being slightly longer, the option to walk along a tree-lined path next to the Rio Tomeza was a no-brainer. One of the souvenir sellers I chatted with earlier in the day warned us that the detour might be slippery and muddy because of the rain, and he was right. But you know what? All the mud on my shoes was worth it. The forest around the meandering river was beautiful, and we had it all to ourselves.
Pontevedra
Pontevedra was a really charming city with some lovely churches that caught our interest. After finding the only place open for food—KFC—and eating the worst French fries of my life, we checked into our hotel and set out to explore the city.
If you’re wandering around, be sure to check out the Church of the Pilgrim Virgin in the center. Its layout is supposedly shaped like a scallop shell. While I wasn’t entirely convinced about the shell shape, paying €1 to climb the stairs and get a bird’s-eye view of the church was definitely worth it.
Another fascinating building is the Convento de San Francisco, which overlooks the gardens and fountain in Plaza de Ferrería. Dating back to the 14th century, legend has it that it was founded by Francis of Assisi during his pilgrimage to Santiago. You might have heard of him—he’s the founder of the Franciscan order and the one who called animals his brothers and sisters.
