Over the Christmas holidays, I made the most of some decent weather and went with my family on a short trip. I wanted somewhere I hadn’t been before, with a manageable loop trail for a few hours of walking so we could easily return to the car. With my personal goal of visiting every castle on the Eagle’s Nest Trail, Pilcza Castle seemed like the perfect addition to my collection!
The Eagle’s Nest Trail
The Eagle’s Nest Trail is a stunning biking and hiking route connecting medieval castles and fortifications between Kraków and Częstochowa. Built on high, hard-to-reach limestone rocks, these 12 castles once formed a defensive line along the borders of the Kingdom of Poland. Their lofty positions inspired the name, as they resemble eagles’ nests perched on cliffs. While most of the castles are now in ruins, a few have been restored. There are a couple more ruins of castles and fortifications outside of the main trail.
Pilcza Castle
Located in Smoleń, Pilcza Castle stands atop a forested hill over 450 meters above sea level. Originally built with a round tower and residential buildings, the castle dates back to the 14th century and was later expanded with two lower castles, connected by a unique crossing.
Though partially ruined, 21st-century revitalization efforts have strengthened its walls and even added an observation deck on the tower, offering stunning views of the valley below.
We visited on December 22nd, and unsurprisingly, the castle was officially closed. However, we lucked out as one of the gates was open, giving us access to a portion of the castle – whether it was on purpose or accident, we had no idea. As if that wasn’t enough of a surprise, we spotted a fox darting across the rocks below—a truly unexpected treat!
Take a walk also outside the castle. There are information boards around it that provide fascinating details about its history and the surrounding area.
Wodącej Valley
After exploring the castle, we set off to Wodącej Valley, a scenic dry karst valley filled with limestone formations, caves, and all the hallmarks of the Jurassic landscape. My plan was to follow a 7.5 km loop through the main sights, but the muddy forest trails and looming rain led to a rebellion within my group. 😅 Plans shifted, but we still managed to enjoy some highlights.
Original Route Highlights
The route starts at Pilcza Castle and winds through the forest past some fascinating rock formations, like the humorously named “Cauliflower Rock” (though I failed to spot it).
After exiting the forest, turn right and you will pass two caves:
- Psia Cave
- Na Biśniku Cave: A key archaeological site with finds dating back 500,000 years, making it one of the oldest traces of human activity in Poland. Unfortunately, it’s currently closed due to ongoing work.
Further along, the trail leads to Grodzisko Pańskie, a hill featuring Stations of the Cross carvings and a viewpoint. Returning through the forest to the valley, you’ll pass the Clock Rocks (Zegarowe Skały), towering limestone formations with spires and towers. The rocks also feature caves, such as Bright (Jasna) Cave and Clock (Zegarowa) Cave.
Our Modified Route
When my group called it quits on the muddy forest path, we adjusted the plan and skipped the caves and Grodzisko Pańskie. Instead, we turned left and followed the trail along the valley.
The towering Clock Rocks caught our attention, so we made a detour to climb the hill and visit Bright Cave, which turned out to be worth the effort.
The climb took about 20 minutes one way and offered great views. On the way, I noticed a few rock-climbing routes, which I’d love to try in the future! After exploring the area, we retraced our steps to the car, semi-cleaned our mud-caked shoes in the grass, and headed home.
Final Thoughts
Despite the unexpected detours and altered plans, I thoroughly enjoyed exploring Pilcza Castle and Wodącej Valley. The area is rich in history and natural beauty, offering plenty to see and do for hikers, history enthusiasts, and even rock climbers.
Next time, I’ll visit in warmer, drier weather to fully explore the trail and caves—and maybe even tick off a few more castles on the Eagle’s Nest Trail!
