Split was the city where we spent most of our time and became our home base. It’s conveniently close to the airport and surrounded by fascinating sights. As Croatia’s second-largest city and the biggest in Dalmatia, Split has a rich history dating back to its founding by the Roman emperor Diocletian. He built a grand palace there in the late third century AD, which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and forms about half of the old town, filled with historical and cultural treasures.
Diocletian’s Palace
Diocletian’s Palace is a must-see, covering nearly half of Split’s old town. It’s more than just a palace—it’s a complex of streets, squares, churches, and ancient architecture. You don’t need a ticket to explore most of the palace grounds, but there are museums within the palace area that require an entry fee.
The central square, Peristyle, is the starting point for visiting the Cathedral of St. Domnius, built within Diocletian’s former mausoleum.
For sweeping views of the city and the sea, climb the cathedral’s bell tower.
View from the cathedral’s bell towerOpposite the cathedral lies the Temple of Jupiter, once a Roman temple, now a baptistery.
If you take the stairs up from Peristyle, you’ll find yourself in the Vestibule, a photogenic rotunda that was once the first section of the imperial corridor leading to the palace’s Imperial apartments.
Going down from Peristyle brings you to the Palace Cellars, one of the best-preserved parts of the complex. Here, you’ll find an open passage lined with shops selling local art and souvenirs. The basement also serves as a museum area and was a key filming location for Game of Thrones, where Daenerys famously chained her dragons.
Learn more about the palace on the official website: Diocletian’s Palace.
The Golden Gate
As the main entrance to Diocletian’s Palace, the Golden Gate was the most elaborate of the four gates (the others are the Silver, Iron, and Bronze gates). In front of it stands the iconic 8-meter statue of Croatian bishop Grgur Ninski (Gregory of Nin), a 10th-century advocate for the use of Croatian in the church. For good luck, rub his big toe, which has taken on a unique shine from countless touches over the years.
Riva Promenade
The Riva Promenade runs along the palace’s south side, offering beautiful views of the harbor, nearby islands, and mountains. Lined with cafés, restaurants, and bars, it’s lively day and night, but there’s something especially magical about it after sunset.
Marjan Hill
On the western edge of the city, Marjan Hill provides fantastic views of Split and the surrounding area. Various trails lead to the top, each with scenic spots, chapels, beaches, and picnic areas.
If you’d rather not hike, the terrace in front of Teraca Vidilica Restaurant offers a great view. I wouldn’t recommend the restaurant itself, though—the staff were so unfriendly that I had to check Google reviews to see if others had similar experiences. Turns out, the one-star reviews were spot-on!
Island hop
Split is an ideal starting point for exploring the Dalmatian islands. Ferries from the port can take you to islands like Hvar, Brac, and Vis, known for their beautiful beaches. I had hoped to visit but ran out of time—next trip!