In the whimsical year of Corona, my dreams of wandering through the twinkling Christmas markets were dashed, much like many other grand plans of that year. But, undeterred, I decided to try my luck again this year, and voilà! I snagged some wallet-friendly flights for a weekend escapade to Switzerland.
Over the course of two jolly days, we hopped between the twinkling markets of Basel in Switzerland and Colmar in France. It was a delightful return to a cherished tradition, though I must admit, the crowds seemed to have multiplied beyond my memories from years past. But more on that later.
Colmar
Colmar, a medieval gem, ranks high among the most enchanting towns I’ve ever visited. This town, renowned as the crown jewel of the Alsace region, is a haven for connoisseurs of fine wine, exquisite cuisine, and jaw-dropping scenery. Its streets are a kaleidoscope of color, with half-timbered houses lining the leisurely river that meanders through the village. And let’s not forget the mesmerizing Christmas decorations that add a magical touch, making Colmar a winter wonderland during the festive season. Yet, its beauty transcends seasons, and I’m eager to experience its summer splendor, lounging in the sunshine with a glass of local wine in hand.
As you wander through Colmar, the meticulously adorned houses catch your eye, explaining why so many flock here during Christmas. The town captured my heart, and it’s a pity we couldn’t stay into the evening.
The city’s compact size makes it perfect for exploring on foot. Though there are several market locations, they seamlessly flow from one to another, creating an endless festive journey. One market ends, and just like magic, another begins.
For those who like to plan their route, here’s a handy list of market spots:
- Place Des Dominicains
- Place de l’Ancienne Douane
- Place Jeanne d’Arc
- Koifhus- Indoor Market
- Little Venice (Petite Venise)
- Gourmet Market at Place de la Cathedrale
Choosing just one photogenic spot in this town is a tall order. I found myself constantly snapping pictures, marveling at the stunning Christmas charm that each new street corner and alleyway unveiled. A particularly picturesque area worth your time is Little Venice (Petite Venise) – the quintessential postcard snapshot of Colmar. The canal zone is absolutely mesmerizing. As you meander across bridges and down the quaint streets, you’ll be greeted by charming houses in shades of yellow, blue, and pink.
Crowds
It seems to me that many blogs, TikToks, and internet posts don’t quite emphasize this enough 🙂 While I absolutely adored the town, I would think twice before visiting again during Advent weekends. The crowds there were on a whole new level, even surpassing the throngs I’ve experienced at Disneyland. Imagine feeling the breath of the person behind you on your neck – quite a vivid experience! The mix of cobblestone streets, struggling strollers, dogs underfoot, and folks juggling cups of mulled wine, just a spill away from a mini-disaster, created chaos. In this crowd, you didn’t choose your path; the crowd decided it for you.
Although I’m not a fan of crowds, and my boyfriend thoroughly detested it (to put it mildly), I understand some people thrive in the bustling energy of a crowd, so it might be your cup of tea. Just brace yourself mentally. I managed to endure for 6 hours, and despite my longing to stay into the evening, the overwhelming crowds led me to make a swift escape.
Otherwise, plan the visit during the week. From what I heard, there is a little bit less crowd.
Stands
We found it challenging to navigate through the stands, as squeezing past the crowds was quite a task. From afar, we saw that the stalls were a delightful mix of food offerings, unique crafts, and the usual array of festive Christmas market treasures.
Restaurants
In Colmar, we discovered that many restaurants have a unique schedule, closing their doors around 14:00 and reopening near 18:00. This timing posed a bit of a challenge for us when hunger struck around 15:00. The few eateries that were open during this interim period were incredibly crowded, with long queues snaking outside into the chilly, sub-zero weather. Unwilling to brave the cold and with my boyfriend’s patience for crowds wearing thin, we ended up finding a local kebab place for our meal.
Feeling a twinge of disappointment at missing out on the region’s famed culinary treats, we decided to immerse ourselves in the local flavor in a different way. We ventured into one of the city’s inviting wine bars, eager to sample some of Colmar’s renowned local wines. And that hit the jackpot 🙂
How to get to Colmar
Traveling to Colmar from Strasbourg and Basel is surprisingly straightforward by train. An hourly service connects both cities directly to Colmar (as of December 2023).
For booking tickets, I recommend using the SNCF official website: SNCF Connect. We managed to book our tickets just minutes before departure without any issues. However, if you’re more of a planner, booking in advance could snag you a better deal. While we paid 16 Euros for a one-way ticket, I noticed that on some days, tickets were available for as low as 5 Euros.
A word of advice: since many people share this travel plan, especially during the Christmas weekends, be prepared for the possibility of not getting a seat. On our journey, we had to stand for part of the ride.
Colmar Christmas Shuttle
As we wandered through the city, we spotted a festive Christmas bus. A quick online search revealed that on weekends (Fridays through Sundays), a special Christmas Shuttle operates, connecting tourists to nearby quaint towns like Eguisheim, Kaysersberg, Munster, Riquewihr, and Ribeauvillé.
For more details, you can visit these websites:
Basel
Basel turned out to be an unexpectedly delightful surprise with its Christmas markets. Initially, our main focus was on visiting Colmar, and Basel was primarily chosen as a convenient place to stay due to its proximity to the airport. However, after leaving Colmar earlier than planned, we found ourselves strolling through Basel’s charming streets and thoroughly enjoying its markets.
Christmas Markets
There are two main markets, one at Barfüsserplatz and the other at Münsterplatz, both within a short walk from each other. Although they might not be the largest markets, our experience on a Saturday evening was quite pleasant, as the crowds were manageable. This allowed us to leisurely explore and shop at various stands.
Stands
There were many interesting craft stands and places to buy snacks and drinks.
However, one noticeable aspect was the higher prices in Basel compared to Colmar. For instance, a pancake that cost us 4 Euros in Colmar was priced at 8 Euros in Basel, a trend we observed with several other items available at both locations.
The City
Meandering through the city turned out to be an absolute treat. We had no grand plan or specific direction – our strategy was simple: if a street looked charming, we strolled down it. The city, decked out in its festive best, was a sight to behold. A pro tip for fellow wanderers: make sure to saunter across a bridge or two. The views are stunning; each side of the river competes in beauty, offering scenes that are sure to dazzle and amuse.
Magical Courtyards
As we meandered through the city, we stumbled upon several courtyards, each adorned with enchanting Christmas decorations. Curiosity led us to do a quick online search, and we learned that Basel has specifically chosen 18 courtyards to serve as serene Christmas havens, offering a peaceful retreat from the city’s lively atmosphere. Each of these magical courtyards boasts its own distinct allure, making them all worth a visit. Although time constraints prevented us from exploring all of them, the ones we did see were quite fascinating.
For those interested in discovering these hidden gems, a map detailing the locations of all the courtyards is available at Magical Courtyards in Basel.
Basel Cathedral (Münster)
The Basel Münster stands as a striking symbol of the city, renowned for its unique red sandstone architecture and vividly colored roof tiles. This historic structure, which dates back to between 1019 and 1500, is one of Basel’s oldest.
Ascending the towers of the Basel Münster rewards visitors with panoramic views of Basel and its neighboring countries, France and Germany. The climb involves 250 steps and is accessible throughout the year at a cost of CHF 6 per person.
The view is particularly enchanting during the Christmas season, as the city below twinkles with festive lights. In the three weeks leading up to Christmas, the stairway is beautifully illuminated in the afternoons. From atop, you can spot a Christmas tree and market at the square next to the cathedral.
The towers’ viewpoint becomes even more enchanting during the Christmas season, as the city below twinkles with festive lights. In the three weeks leading up to Christmas, the staircase is illuminated in the afternoon, adding to the magical experience.
It’s worth mentioning that buying tickets to climb the tower involves a unique policy: a minimum of two people must be present to purchase tickets, but it’s not mandatory for both to make the climb. This rule serves as a safety precaution to deter suicides. In my case, my boyfriend wasn’t keen on the climb, so he patiently waited for me downstairs while I ascended to enjoy the stunning views from above.
Navigating the towers can be a bit of a squeeze, with narrow stairs and passageways. At certain points, I found myself tightly squeezing past people going in the opposite direction. A tip for future visitors: avoid bringing a backpack if you can, as the tight spaces make it a bit of a struggle to maneuver.
Pfalz
Should you miss the opportunity to climb the Basel Cathedral, there’s no need to worry. Right behind the cathedral lies the Pfalz, a terrace celebrated for its magnificent views over the Rhine River. This spot is a favorite among visitors and locals alike, offering a breathtaking perspective of the city and its surroundings.
Rhine ferries
From the viewing platform, we observed quaint boats navigating the river, intriguingly moving from one bank to the other solely by using a steel cable and the natural current of the water.
These boats, known as the “Wilde Maa”, “Leu”, “Vogel Gryff”, and “Ueli”, are unique features of Basel. They provide ferry service between the five Rhine bridges, creating a connection between Grossbasel and Kleinbasel.
For more detailed information, you can visit their official website at www.faehri.ch.
